It’s time for another coast to coast walk. In November 2019 the world heard about a virus in China that was causing great concern to some doctors who spoke out. At first little was known as the Chinese Authorities were giving the impression that they had it under control and it was nothing to worry about.
Then in December it hit Italy hard and the death toll started to rise. It quickly spread around the world.
The government of Barbados took the proactive role and repurposed an abandoned Naval Base, which was previously used as a prison, into a state of the art infectious disease hospital. It was handed over in a few months and has proved to be the best thing any government has done since independence.
By March 2020 the island was under strict lock down and various measures were put in place to limit the spread and death. It was kept under control except for the occasional cluster which, once identified, was dealt with a firm hand before it spread to the population at large.
The general population of the island co-operated with the protocols and advice given by the Ministry of Health. This helped.
In February 2020, after working for 50 years, I retired with plans to travel. This was not to be. In early July 2021 Barbados was moved to the “green” list of countries that would have a short quarantine on arrival in the UK. I immediately booked a trip and left within 5 days. No one knew when the light would change!
It is a lot like approaching a traffic light and not knowing how long it has been green. Do you accelerate to get there before it changes or slow down and wait for it to change?
I always keep a few backpacking trips fully planned so it was only a matter printing the maps and getting the Covid Test. I was already fully vaccinated.
Accommodation was to prove difficult but I had a tent so that was not really an issue.
Below are a few pictures of the crossing. As usual my pictures do not do justice to the landscape but they will give an idea. Mouse over or click on the images to see the captions.
Day 1
St. Bees at low tide. The hill in the background is the start of the walk.
The official start and monument to Mr. Wainwright.
Day 2
St. Bees beach taken from the top of the cliff on the first climb
Old stone millstones used to grind corn or wheat years ago.
Descending form Bell Ho to cross the train line.
Day 3
Ennerdale water.
Ennerdale water.
Black Sail. Unfortunately it was closed. The trail then went up the hill to the left.
Kirk Fell from Grey Knotts. The trail to the east of the stream is not visible from Black Sail Hut. If you are using paper and compass navigation care is required so as not to get on the wrong trail.
Buttermare Water and Crummock Water from Fleetwith.
One of the carvings at the Slate mine. There was also an ice cream shop and café which was closed.
Day 4
Leaving Rosthwaite and a taste of the day to come. Low cloud which made navigation at times a challenge.
Looking back part of the way up - in the cloud!
Looking back part of the way up - in the cloud!
Approaching Lining Craig.
Day 5
Leaving Patterdale on track to Boredale House. Ulls Water to the right.
Angle Tarn. A very secluded wild camp.
Day 6
Angle Tarn. A very secluded wild camp
Hayeswater is covered in clouds. Taken as I approached The Knott. Low cloud made navigation a challenge.
Haweswater Reservoir from Kidsty Pike. When the water level is low, parts of the village that was submerged when the valley was flooded appear.
Day 7
Dry stone fences from many centuries ago.
Orton (old stocks).
Church in Orton.
Kennedys Fine Chocolates Coffee House and factory shop in Orton. Alfred Wainwright, described the village of Orton as “a place of tranquil beauty and unpretentious appeal.”
Day 8
A very welcome honesty shop in Sunbiggin. I passed many in rural farms and they provided a good source of cold drinks and snacks. Some sold home made cakes
Sunbiggin Tarn.
What are these?
The abandoned train track leading to Kirkby Stephen provided some relief from the very hot day. The Section through Smardale has a Red Squirrel sanctuary. I saw several in the trees and "Rope Highways" built for them.
Day 9
Kirkby Stephen.
Kirkby Stephen.
Leaving Kirkby Stephen to Nine Standards.
Nine Standards.
Camp at Keld.
Nine Standards.
Day 10
View from the B&B at Reeth.
One of the many dry stone barns between Keld and Reeth.
The Yorkshire Dales - known by Yorkshiremen as "God's Own County".
Day 11
Richmond.
Richmond.
Richmond Castle. The castle was originally built to subdue the unruly North of England and is one of the greatest Norman fortresses in Britain.
Day 13
A warning of what becomes of those that abuse the honour systems and fail to pay for drinks and food left out by the farmers (kids). The witch will get you.
Humour on the trail - when this gate opened it triggered ghost like sounds.
Day 14 – the UK for is now hot, hot, hot!
A good place to relax just pass Glaisdale.
The English Daisy - what's considered a vigorous plant in one garden is considered a weed in another. Daisies are native flower here, where the spreading nature and drought tolerance of the plants make them pasture pests. The Latin name Leucanthemum is said to have originated from the ancient Greek word ‘leucos’, meaning white.
Day 15 – Job Done!
Approaching Daisy Bank on the final day.
First views of the North Sea and Robin Hood's Bay.
Robin Hood's Bay - journey's end.
This coast to coast route was pioneered by Alfred Wainwright and is a varied and interesting backpacking trip. It crosses three national parks (the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors) each special but different in their own way. If you are interested in geology the varied rocks and landscapes will be very interesting.
The farmers I met along the way appeared to me to speak different languages (dialects) as you move from west to the east!
Grasmere and Windermere are busy with tourists and don’t cater to backpackers and, in my opinion, are best avoided. Robin Hood Bay is the same and I only spent a few hours there.
Despite the Covid-19 restrictions I found the people in the smaller villages and towns very friendly. When a wild camp was needed after a long day I always found someone who would suggest a spot. Sometimes a corner of their garden or behind a pub.
After the Lake District the trail is marked with signposts at the appropriate places. But you will still need to carry maps – and know how to read them.
The weather can change very quickly, be prepared to walk in cloud at times when the view is obscured.
If you are crossing in the summer months and wish to spend each night in a B&B you will need to book accommodation months in advance.
The honour shops provide a very refreshing pause especially in the remote farms.
The Wainwright trail would be a good choice as a first multi-day backpacking hike. You are never far from a town that you can divert to. There are companies that arrange all accommodation and carry your gear so you only walk with a day pack.
You may also be interested in The Great Outdoor (TGO) Challenge coast to coast walks from the West Coast of Scotland to the East coast of Scotland which is about 320 km (210 km point-to-point). This walk is one of my favourites. I’ve now done this coast to coast crossing of Scotland seven times (2012, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019) – six official entries, five official completions, one official non-completion due to injury and one just for fun!
William, my dear friend. It was a pleasure to read and I wish I could have joined.
I am missing you and hope to be runited in the near future. Stay well and chapeau to your adventurous spirit!
xx Maria
As a Bajan living in the UK, I thoroughly enjoyed your pictures of the C2C. My husband and I walked it in 2016 and it remains the favourite holiday I have ever taken. Looking at your photos reminded me of the fabulous holiday that we enjoyed. We started on Day 1 in POURING rain, the prettily named “Nanny Catch Beck” on the way into Ennerdale Bridge was over our knees but by Day 5 we were buying sunblock in Shap… as only the English weather can provide.
I have recently run C2C, Minehead to Dawlish but that was in one day so not such a multi-day adventure. I have never heard of The Great Outdoor Challenge but as I am being made redundant next year I shall make a note to follow that one up.
Thank you once again.
Kind regards
Gillian